No, iPad auto-correct. “Afro bed meeting” is not really close to “at dinner meeting.”
Monthly Archives: January 2013
Fix a 1998 Furby that won’t wake up or start up (without disassembly)
- 12/2014 Update: I keep planning to take some pics of the “screw thing” to post with this, but keep forgetting. Sorry about that.
- 11/2015 Update: This is the most viewed article on my site. Who knew there were so many folks out there with bad Furbys!
- 12/2016 Update: A year later, and folks are still finding this article. There were about 300 views of it on Christmas day. Retro presents, I guess?
- 01/24/2017 Update: Commenter Samuel submitted a photo of the gear. It doesn’t look like the spiral gear I remember, so either there is another gear I missed, or there was a variation of the Furby
- 3/5/2026 Update: Today I shut down my old appleause.com blog and moved the content here. Welcome, Furby rescuers!
If your old Furby won’t wake up or won’t start up and appears dead, you may be able to fix it in a few seconds without having to take it apart.
I recently tried to get my original 1998 Furby to work, and found that it was dead. I spent some time doing unsuccessful web searches, with none of the tips (“try new batteries”, “press the reset button”) helping. A second Furby has the same issue, and it looked like it might be related to a jammed motor, per this tutorial:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Push-Start-a-Comatose-Furby/
This procedure involved all kinds of disassembly, sewing things back together and hot glue. A similar YouTube video shed more light on the problem off the stuck motor:
I suspected you could just get to the motor using a small screwdriver and going in around the eye or beak, and indeed, it works. I was able to use a tiny flathead screwdriver, inserted above the beak and in to the left to gently rotate the corkscrew spiral connected to the motor a few times and within seconds, the Furby was alive again. Both units were fixed this easy, with no disassembly required.
Update: Thanks to Samuel (http://twitter.com/samsearight), we now have a photo. On my Furby, there is a corkscrew spiral gear I moved, and not this normal gear. I don’t know if the gear is also in mine or if this is a different revision. It looks easier to work with than the gear I found in mine. Thanks, Samuel!

Teensy 2.0 iCade source code
(Edited on 02/12/2013 to fix the source code formatting, and to add a photo.)
NOTE: There is a native method of compiling code for the Teensy, using a C compiler, but this source code was built using the Teensyduino add-on. It enables the standard Arduino IDE GUI to build code for the Teensy. You have to install the Arduino IDE first, then you install the Teensyduino add-on on top of it.
“As seen on the Teensy Project Page.”
This is my source code for the Teensy 2.0 iCade/Atari joystick interface. It could easily be made to work on an Arduino that has USB HID support (Arduino Leonardo, Esplora) and enough digital I/O pins. It is a bit bulky because I emit various status messages for testing, but I will at some point provide a stripped down version. I also have a version that uses the Debounce library which appears even smaller, but I like completely self-contained code where possible.
I have not got back to clean this up, so it includes some items commented out and such, but I wanted to provide this for those asking about it.
Or, this code could be modified to run on the new Arduino Esplora, which already has joystick buttons on it and USB HID output to act like a keyboard/mouse to whatever it’s hooked up to:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=18450286#
Keep in mind, the Teensy 2.0 is a low power device and it seems the 20mah of the iPad is enouhg to power it (running in low power mode, no LEDs, etc.). This may not be the case with an Arduino, and they may require hooking up via a powered hub before connecting to the iPad.
//*-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Teensy iCade Input
by Allen C. Huffman (alsplace@pobox.com)
Monitor digital inputs, then emit a USB keyboard character mapped to an iCade
button depending on the pin status. The character will be the "hold" character
for pin connected (N.O. button push) and "release" character for pin
disconnected (N.O. button released).
Pin 11 is reserved for blinking the onboard LED as a heartbeat "we are alive"
indicator.
This software was written to allow a Teensy 2.0 to interface between arcade
buttons and an iPad via USB and Camera Connector Kit.
2012-12-04 0.0 allenh - Initial version, based on my ArduinoAIDI code.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
#define VERSION "0.0"
#define LED_OFF
//#include <eeprom .h>
//#include <avr/wdt.h>
/*
iCade keyboard mappings.
See developer doc at: http://www.ionaudio.com/products/details/icade
WE YT UF IM OG
AQ< -->DC
XZ HR JN KP LV
Atari joystick port, looking at the male DB9 on the Atari.
See: http://old.pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari2600_pinout.shtml
1 2 3 4 5/ Up Dn Lt Rt PA
6 7 8 9/ Bt +5 Gd PB
*/
/*
The following I/O pins will be used as digital inputs
for each specific iCade function.
*/
#define UP_PIN 0
#define DOWN_PIN 1
#define LEFT_PIN 2
#define RIGHT_PIN 3
#define BTN1_PIN 4
#define BTN2_PIN 5
#define BTN3_PIN 6
#define BTN4_PIN 7
#define BTN5_PIN 8
#define BTN6_PIN 9
#define BTN7_PIN 10
#define BTN8_PIN 12
/*
The following keys are the iCade sequence (hold, release)
for each function. Send "W" to indicate UP, and "E" when
UP is released.
*/
#define UP_KEYS "we"
#define DOWN_KEYS "xz"
#define LEFT_KEYS "aq"
#define RIGHT_KEYS "dc"
#define BTN1_KEYS "yt"
#define BTN2_KEYS "uf"
#define BTN3_KEYS "im"
#define BTN4_KEYS "og"
#define BTN5_KEYS "hr"
#define BTN6_KEYS "jn"
#define BTN7_KEYS "kp"
#define BTN8_KEYS "lv"
#define DI_PIN_COUNT 12 // 12 pins used.
#define DI_PIN_START 1 // First I/O pin.
#define DI_PIN_END 20 // Last I/O pin.
byte myPins[DI_PIN_COUNT] =
{UP_PIN, DOWN_PIN, LEFT_PIN, RIGHT_PIN,
BTN1_PIN, BTN2_PIN, BTN3_PIN, BTN4_PIN,
BTN5_PIN, BTN6_PIN, BTN7_PIN, BTN8_PIN};
char iCadeKeymap[][DI_PIN_COUNT] =
{UP_KEYS, DOWN_KEYS, LEFT_KEYS, RIGHT_KEYS,
BTN1_KEYS, BTN2_KEYS, BTN3_KEYS, BTN4_KEYS,
BTN5_KEYS, BTN6_KEYS, BTN7_KEYS, BTN8_KEYS};
char iCadeDesc[][DI_PIN_COUNT] =
{"Up", "Down", "Left", "Right",
"Btn1", "Btn2", "Btn3", "Btn4",
"Btn5", "Btn6", "Btn7", "Btn8"};
/* We want a very short debounce delay for an arcade controller. */
#define DI_DEBOUNCE_MS 10 // 100ms (1/10th second)
#define LED_PIN 11
#define LEDBLINK_MS 1000
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
/* For I/O pin status and debounce. */
unsigned int digitalStatus[DI_PIN_COUNT]; // Last set PIN mode.
unsigned long digitalDebounceTime[DI_PIN_COUNT]; // Debounce time.
// unsigned long digitalCounter[DI_PIN_COUNT]; // Times button pressed.
unsigned int digitalDebounceRate = DI_DEBOUNCE_MS; // Debounce rate.
/* For the blinking LED (heartbeat). */
unsigned int ledStatus = LOW; // Last set LED mode.
unsigned long ledBlinkTime = 0; // LED blink time.
unsigned int ledBlinkRate = LEDBLINK_MS; // LED blink rate.
unsigned int pinsOn = 0;
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void setup()
{
// Just in case it was left on...
// wdt_disable();
// Initialize the serial port.
Serial.begin(9600);
// Docs say this isn't necessary for Uno.
// while(!Serial) { }
showHeader();
// Initialize watchdog timer for 2 seconds.
// wdt_enable(WDTO_4S);
// LOW POWER MODE!
// Pins default to INPUT mode. To save power, turn them all to OUTPUT
// initially, so only those being used will be turn on. See:
// http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/low_power.html
for (int thisPin = 0; thisPin < DI_PIN_COUNT; thisPin++)
{
pinMode(thisPin, OUTPUT);
}
// Disable Unused Peripherals
ADCSRA = 0;
// Initialize the pins and digitalPin array.
for (int thisPin = 0; thisPin < DI_PIN_COUNT; thisPin++)
{
// Set pin to be digital input using pullup resistor.
pinMode(myPins[thisPin], INPUT_PULLUP);
// Set the current initial pin status.
digitalStatus[thisPin] = HIGH; // digitalRead(thisPin+DI_PIN_START);
// Clear debounce time.
digitalDebounceTime[thisPin] = 0;
// digitalCounter[thisPin] = 0;
}
// Set LED pin to output, since it has an LED we can use.
pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
Serial.println("Ready.");
}
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void loop()
{
// Tell the watchdog timer we are still alive.
// wdt_reset();
#ifndef LED_OFF
// LED blinking heartbeat. Yes, we are alive.
if ((long)(millis() - ledBlinkTime) >= 0)
{
// Toggle LED.
if (ledStatus == LOW) // If LED is LOW...
{
ledStatus = HIGH; // ...make it HIGH.
}
else
{
ledStatus = LOW; // ...else, make it LOW.
}
// Set LED pin status.
if (pinsOn == 0)
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, ledStatus);
// Reset "next time to toggle" time.
ledBlinkTime = millis() + ledBlinkRate;
}
#endif
// Check for serial data.
if (Serial.available() > 0)
{
// If data ready, read a byte.
int incomingByte = Serial.read();
// Parse the byte we read.
switch (incomingByte)
{
case '?':
showStatus();
break;
default:
break;
}
}
/*-------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
// Loop through each Digital Input pin.
for (int thisPin = 0; thisPin < DI_PIN_COUNT; thisPin++)
{
// Read the pin's current status.
unsigned int status = digitalRead(myPins[thisPin]);
// In pin status has changed from our last toggle...
if (status != digitalStatus[thisPin])
{
// Remember when it changed, starting debounce mode.
// If not currently in debounce mode,
if (digitalDebounceTime[thisPin] == 0)
{
// Set when we can accept this as valid (debounce is considered
// done if the time gets to this point with the status still the same).
digitalDebounceTime[thisPin] = millis() + digitalDebounceRate;
}
// Check to see if we are in debounce detect mode.
if (digitalDebounceTime[thisPin] > 0)
{
// Yes we are. Have we delayed long enough yet?
if ((long)(millis() - digitalDebounceTime[thisPin]) >= 0)
{
// Yes, so consider it switched.
// If pin is Active LOW,
if (status == LOW)
{
// Emit BUTTON PRESSED string.
Serial.print(iCadeDesc[thisPin]);
Serial.print(" pressed (sending ");
Serial.print(iCadeKeymap[thisPin][0]);
Serial.println(" to iCade).");
Keyboard.print(iCadeKeymap[thisPin][0]);
// digitalCounter[thisPin]++;
pinsOn++;
#ifndef LED_OFF
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH);
#endif
}
else
{
// Emit BUTTON RELEASED string.
Serial.print(iCadeDesc[thisPin]);
Serial.print(" released (sending ");
Serial.print(iCadeKeymap[thisPin][1]);
Serial.println(" to iCade).");
Keyboard.print(iCadeKeymap[thisPin][1]);
if (pinsOn > 0)
pinsOn--;
if (pinsOn == 0)
digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW);
}
// Remember current (last set) status for this pin.
digitalStatus[thisPin] = status;
// Reset debounce time (disable, not looking any more).
digitalDebounceTime[thisPin] = 0;
} // End of if ( (long)(millis()-digitalDebounceTime[thisPin]) >= 0 )
} // End of if (digitalDebounceTime[thisPin]>0)
}
else // No change? Flag no change.
{
// If we were debouncing, we are no longer debouncing.
digitalDebounceTime[thisPin] = 0;
}
} // End of (int thisPin=0; thisPin < DI_PIN_COUNT; thisPin++ )
}
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void showHeader()
{
int i;
// Emit some startup stuff to the serial port.
Serial.print("iCadeTeensy ");
Serial.print(VERSION);
Serial.println(" by Allen C. Huffman (alsplace@pobox.com)");
Serial.print(DI_PIN_COUNT);
Serial.print(" DI Pins (");
for (i = 0; i < DI_PIN_COUNT; i++)
{
Serial.print(myPins[i]);
Serial.print("=");
Serial.print(iCadeDesc[i]);
Serial.print(" ");
}
Serial.print("), ");
Serial.print(digitalDebounceRate);
Serial.println("ms Debounce.");
}
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void showStatus()
{
showDigitalInputStatus();
}
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
void showDigitalInputStatus()
{
Serial.print("DI: ");
for (int thisPin = 0; thisPin < DI_PIN_COUNT; thisPin++)
{
// Read the pin's current status.
Serial.print(iCadeDesc[thisPin]);
Serial.print("=");
Serial.print(digitalRead(myPins[thisPin]));
Serial.print(" ");
// Serial.print(" (");
// Serial.print(digitalCounter[thisPin]);
// Serial.print(") ");
}
Serial.println("");
}
/*---------------------------------------------------------------------------*/
// End of file.
Apple Maps: Your milage may vary.
I just read a reference to Apple’s “struggling” map software. Like many things that get “reported” in the blogosphere, they are often repeating the echo chamber of things observed or researched by others, or they are sharing one tiny sliver of experience as fact as if everyone experiences it the same way.
When it comes to Apple Maps on iOS 6, I must say, I am quite impressed. You see, there is a small connecting road on the East side of Des Moines that my 2005 Toyota Prius navigation system never knew about. It would always route many blocks out of the way to go around it.
My 2007 navigation system, likewise, also did not know about. And neither did an additional map update I purchased for it at great cost.
My 2010 3rd generation Prius navigation system also does not seem to think it exists, nor did a map update for it.
Two TomTom models, years apart, do not know it exists, even after being reported with the community “suggest corrections” feature TomTom brags about.
I believe I even tested a Magellan navigation unit to find it also did not know about this road.
Surprisingly, to me, the one map that did have it was OpenStreetMaps – the open source wikipedia of maps. Amazing that they knew about this road, while Google, Navtec, TomTom, etc. did not seem to believe that it existed — even though it had been there for ages.
Google, today, does show this section of the road, but I believe that was not the case a few years ago.
And Apple Maps also shows it. Not only that, but Apple Maps can correctly navigate me from my housing area to the Main Street without jumping me through the forest nearby like everything else does. None of the systems I have used had the connecting driveway that links my area with the road, so they often jump to the closest pavement they can find, which is over the river and through the woods.
Apple Maps is the first map software I have used that correctly pinpoints where I live, and knows how to get there without just getting close.
So from my perspective, it’s a huge improvement over many other maps I have used and reviewed over the years.
But your milage may vary.


